Tongs holding a glowing, red-hot blade at the mouth of a forge
Acre Knife

Glossary

New to knives or just looking to expand your vocabulary?

We’ve pulled together some of the terms we get asked about most.

Each component of a knife plays a critical role in its balance, safety, cutting performance, and overall durability.

Knife anatomy

Hover over any part name to learn more.Tap any part name to learn more.

Components A–Z

Belly

The curved section of a blade’s cutting edge. The curve concentrates pressure into a smaller area as the blade moves through food or other material, allowing for more aggressive cuts.

Blade

The area of the knife forward of the handle, comprising the spine, blade surface, and cutting edge.

Bolster

A junction of material between the blade and handle that can be metal, wood, or synthetic with the purpose of adding weight, balance, structural strength, or aesthetic appeal.

Butt

The rear end of a knife handle.

Chamfer

A small angled bevel that softens a sharp corner, like the front of the handle where it meets the blade.

Choil

A semi-circular transition from the underside of the handle into the heel of the knife. It often serves as a rest or guard for the finger closest to the blade.

Convex Grind

A primary bevel that gradually curves downward from the spine and into the cutting edge, resulting in a symmetrical “apple-seed”-shaped geometry. It’s typically accomplished by grinding on a soft backing.

Cutting Edge

The sharpened section of a knife that cuts.

Faceted Handle

A handle sculpted to accommodate the hand with flat geometric planes.

Fastener

A pin, rivet, or bolt that runs through the scales and tang to hold the handle together.

Flat Grind

A primary bevel where the blade tapers in a straight continuous line from the spine all the way down to the cutting edge, creating a symmetrical V-shaped geometry. It’s accomplished by grinding on a flat surface.

Frame

A handle construction technique used on hidden tang knives, comprising two outer handle scales and a thinner third piece of material in the middle with a channel cut out to encapsulate the tang.

Full Tang

A knife tang construction where the metal from the blade leading into the handle extends the entire length and width of the handle.

Half Grind

A flat grind that terminates roughly halfway between the edge and the spine. It’s also referred to as a “sabre” grind.

Hamon

A wispy, often smoky looking visual line created on a knife during the hardening process. This is achieved by coating the spine in an insulating clay. This leaves the blade with a hard cutting edge and soft spine. The hamon line demarcates the transition between these two different states of steel. Hamon means “edge pattern” in Japanese.

Handle

The part of the knife designed for gripping and controlling the blade.

Heel

The rear section of the blade closest to the handle, opposite the tip. The heel often terminates into a secondary L-shaped tip.

Hidden Tang

A knife tang construction where the material from the blade extending into the handle is stick shaped and encapsulated within the handle material. Hidden tangs can range from two-thirds to the entire length of the handle.

Hollow Grind

A primary bevel where the blade tapers inward, creating a symmetrical concave “scoop” or curve from the spine all the way down to the cutting edge. This is accomplished by grinding a blade on a wheel.

Liner

A thin sheet of material laminated to the underside of a knife’s scales. This supports the structural stability of its combining material, while also adding color contrast and aesthetic appeal.

Pins

Small cylindrical metal or synthetic rods used to secure handle material to a knife.

Primary Bevel

The large main taper of a knife blade from the spine to the edge. This is the first bevel created when a bladesmith grinds a knife, and it’s often referred to as “the grind.”

Round Handle

A handle sculpted to accommodate the hand with a fully contoured surface.

Ricasso

The short, flat, unsharpened section of the blade just in front of the handle. It adds strength where the blade meets the handle.

Saya

A specialty sheath designed for kitchen knives in order to safely transport and protect from dulling against other tools in storage.

Scales

Two slabs of material, either wood or synthetic, that surround a steel tang. They’re typically used in full-tang knives.

Secondary Bevel

The very small bevel below the primary bevel that is sharpened into an edge. It’s otherwise known as the “edge” or “edge bevel.”

Sheath

A protective sleeve or housing designed to safely transport a knife or carry it on your person.

Spacer

A thin layer of material placed between two different sections of a knife handle. It runs perpendicular to the tang.

Spine

The thickest, unsharpened top edge of the blade, running opposite the cutting edge from the handle to the tip.

Tang

The excess steel of a knife blade extending into the handle.

Tip

The pointed front end of a knife blade where the spine and the edge terminate.

Wa Handle

A traditional Japanese-style handle made from a block of material with a hole bored into it to accommodate a hidden tang knife. They are most often sculpted in an octagonal shape, but are also seen in an oval or semi round shape.

Handle shape

The shape of a knife handle influences how your hand interacts with the tool, affecting comfort, control, and precision.

160 mm "Olera" Nakiri - Pacific Yew - 03, other side

Japanese Handle

Also known as a Wa handle, the Japanese handle typically features an octagonal or oval profile and is lighter overall. This shifts the knife’s balance point forward, offering a nimble feel and great control for precise cutting. 

170 mm "Vé" Nakiri - Icon G10

Western Handle

Western handles are generally wider and feature ergonomically contoured scales designed to provide a familiar, comfortable grip. Their additional weight shifts the knife’s balance point closer to the hand, making them a good choice for those who prefer a more substantial feel.

Handle materials

Handle materials each have their own advantages and considerations, but the choice often comes down to personal preference, especially when it comes to the look and feel of the material in your hand. 

220 mm Carbon Steel Slicer - Desert Ironwood

Naturals

Wood, bone, and horn have naturally porous structures that give them a warm, comfortable feel in the hand. These materials require slightly more care than their synthetic counterparts, as prolonged exposure to heat or moisture can cause them to warp, expand, or contract.

95 mm Stainless Steel Paring - Micarta

Synthetics

Highly durable and low maintenance, synthetic materials are a practical choice for those looking for added resilience in their knife handles. Compared with natural materials, they are far less susceptible to warping, cracking, and changes caused by moisture and temperature.

Handle materials A–Z

Carbon Fiber

An incredibly strong, rigid, and lightweight synthetic material made of thin crystalline filaments of carbon. This mesh of filaments is pressed with resin into a block to create handle material for knives.

Composite

A composite material is made by combining two or more substances with different physical or chemical properties. Micarta is an example of a composite material, since it’s created using resin and fabric or paper.

Corian

Corian is a brand-name synthetic material developed by DuPont. Often used for countertops, it’s non-porous, sanitary, resistant to cracking, and comes in a wide variety of patterns and colors.

Dyed Wood

During the process of stabilization, dye can be added to the penetrating resin, resulting in colorful handle materials.

G10

Layers of fiberglass pressed together in resin to create a block of durable synthetic material. G10 often comes in bright, vibrant colors that are not attainable in Micarta made from organic fabrics.

G-Carta

A premium specialty Micarta manufactured by G.l. Hansen and Sons in Idaho. It’s made by compressing fabrics like canvas, linen, and paper. G-carta is prized for its unique layered patterns and vibrant colors.

Micarta

Layers of fabric pressed together in resin to create a block of durable synthetic material. Micarta comes in several varieties of fabric, most commonly paper, linen, canvas, and burlap.

Stabilized Wood

Wood that has been infused with resin to improve its durability and dimensional stability. The process uses a vacuum chamber to draw resin deep into the wood, making it more resistant to moisture, warping, and deformation. Stabilization allows for softer or more porous woods to be used as durable knife-handle materials while preserving their natural grain and character.

Many knives can perform the same tasks, but the way they approach those tasks and the ingredients or materials they work best with can differ significantly. Understanding these differences can help you choose a knife that feels natural for the way you work.

And don’t be afraid to bring your knives outdoors with you. Just be sure to clean, dry, and store them properly afterward.

Knife styles A–Z

  • Bird & Trout

    A slender, compact fixed-blade outdoor knife, typically 2–3.5 inches in length, traditionally used for field dressing fish, birds, and other small game.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Dressing, Processing, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Fish, Poultry, Small Game

  • Boning

    A specialized kitchen knife designed to remove bones from meat. Boning knives are typically 5–7 inches in length and feature a slender blade profile for precise carving.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Processing, Boning, Trimming
    Best for
    Meat, Poultry

  • Bunka

    A tall, broad-bladed knife with a relatively flat edge profile that makes maximum use of the cutting board, making it well suited to chopping. The bunka excels at processing vegetables, while its dramatic triangular clipped tip provides the precision of a lower-tipped general-purpose chef knife.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Mincing
    Best for
    Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs, Fish, Meat

  • Chef

    An all-purpose kitchen knife designed for rocking, chopping, and slicing. A chef knife is typically 7–10 inches long and features a tapered, pointed tip. Its blade is tall enough to provide clearance for the knuckles when cutting on a board.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Mincing
    Best for
    Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs, Soft Fruit, Meat, Poultry, Fish

  • Clip Point

    A blade shape with a “clipped” spine, meaning the spine near the tip is cut away in a straight or concave curve. This creates a fine, precise tip that is well suited to detail work and piercing.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Dressing, Processing, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Fish, Game

  • Drop Point

    A blade shape with a curved edge and a spine that also curves gently downward toward the tip. This creates a strong, spear-like profile that reinforces the tip. A classic general-purpose blade design, it is a mainstay of traditional hunting and outdoor knives.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Dressing, Processing, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Fish, Game

  • Forager

    A specialized outdoor knife designed for foraging wild mushrooms. Its inward-curved, “hawksbill” blade allows you to slice mushroom stems close to the ground, making it faster and cleaner than pulling the mushroom up from the earth.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Foraging
    Best for
    Mushrooms

  • Funayuki

    Meaning “going on a boat” in Japanese, funayuki refers to a shortened version of the larger Japanese gyuto. Traditionally carried on fishing vessels as a travel-sized chef knife, it was used to prepare meals and process fish fresh from the water.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Filleting
    Best for
    Fish, Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Meat

  • Gyuto

    Developed in Japan as a response to the Western chef knife, the gyuto typically features a 7–8-inch blade that is approximately two inches tall at the heel. It is widely considered a versatile, multipurpose kitchen knife, suitable for chopping, rocking, and slicing meat and vegetables.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Mincing
    Best for
    Meat, Fish, Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs

  • Hawksbill

    A curved, claw-like blade with a fully hooked or concave edge. This shape naturally pulls material inward while cutting, making it well suited to plant trimming, mushroom foraging, and cutting rope or netting.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Foraging, Rope Cutting, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Mushrooms

  • Kiridashi

    A small traditional Japanese utility knife characterized by a sleek, straight design and an angled chisel-like edge. It is commonly used for woodworking, leathercraft, and general everyday tasks.

    Environment
    Indoor & Outdoor
    Uses
    Woodworking, Leathercraft, Scoring

  • Kiritsuke

    A variation of the Japanese gyuto characterized by a dramatically downward-clipped tip, often called a “K-tip.” This profile provides greater precision at the tip while retaining the versatility of a chef knife.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Mincing
    Best for
    Fish, Meat, Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs

  • Nakiri

    A specialized Japanese vegetable knife. Its tall, thin blade is designed for precise, lightweight cutting, while its squared-off tip allows for a very flat edge profile. This makes the nakiri particularly effective for vertical chopping, maximizing contact with the cutting board.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Slicing, Chopping, Mincing
    Best for
    Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs

  • Paring

    A small, slim, lightweight culinary knife with a blade typically measuring 2.5–4 inches. Designed for precision and maneuverability, it excels at in-hand tasks such as peeling, coring, trimming, and garnishing fruits and vegetables.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Peeling, Coring, Garnishing
    Best for
    Soft Fruit, Hard Fruit, Root Vegetables, Herbs

  • Pattada

    An Italian-style paring knife inspired by a traditional Sardinian utility knife with roots as a farm tool used by sheep herders. Typically 3–4 inches in length, its symmetrical, leaf-shaped blade excels at slicing meats and cheeses for charcuterie, as well as peeling and trimming produce.

    Environment
    Indoor & Outdoor
    Uses
    Slicing, Trimming, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Cheese, Charcuterie, Soft Fruit, Hard Fruit

  • Petty

    Named for the French word petit, meaning small, a petty knife is short and slim with a fine tip designed for delicate, precise cutting tasks such as mincing, coring, and preparing garnishes.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Trimming, Slicing, Garnishing
    Best for
    Soft Fruit, Herbs, Fish, Poultry

  • Puukko

    A traditional Finnish knife with a straight spine, curved edge, and rounded handle. Elegant in its simplicity, the puukko is a versatile outdoor tool commonly used for woodworking, camp chores, and general fieldwork.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Woodworking, Camp Chores, General Fieldwork
    Best for
    Wood, Game, Camp Tasks

  • Recurve

    An S-shaped edge profile that curves inward near the handle and outward toward the tip. This design helps concentrate the cutting action and is especially useful for slicing rope, cardboard, and other fibrous materials.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Rope Cutting, General Fieldwork

  • Santoku

    A Japanese chef knife that is relatively wide and typically 6–7 inches in length, characterized by its rounded, “sheepsfoot”-style tip. A versatile knife suitable for chopping, slicing, and rocking through meat, fish, and vegetables.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Chopping, Slicing, Mincing
    Best for
    Fish, Poultry, Root Vegetables, Leafy Greens, Herbs

  • Sheepsfoot

    A blade with a relatively straight edge and spine. The spine curves sharply downward toward the front, creating a low, robust tip. Designed for control and safety, its flat edge provides increased cutting leverage while the rounded tip reduces the chance of accidental punctures.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    General Fieldwork, Rope Cutting, Scoring

  • Slicer

    A long, narrow kitchen knife designed to create clean, even slices of fish, meat, or poultry. Typically 1–1.5 inches wide and 6–12 inches long, its length allows for slicing in one long, continuous motion.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Processing, Slicing, Carving
    Best for
    Meat, Poultry

  • Sujihiki

    A Japanese-style slicing knife with a double-beveled, V-shaped blade grind. Its long, narrow blade is designed for smooth, precise cuts with a versatile edge that can be used by both right- and left-handed cooks.

    Environment
    Indoor
    Uses
    Slicing, Portioning, Carving
    Best for
    Meat, Fish, Roasts

  • Tanto

    A blade with a straight or upward-sweeping spine and an edge that is clipped at the front, creating a fine, angular tip. Traditionally associated with Japanese swords, this blade shape is known for its piercing ability. In smaller knives, the tanto profile is useful for push cuts with the tip and precise scoring while pinching the blade.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Piercing, Scoring, General Fieldwork

  • Trailing Point

    A blade profile with a curved spine that causes the tip to rise above the handle's axis. This creates a wide, sweeping belly along the edge that excels at slicing.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Dressing, Processing, Filleting
    Best for
    Fish, Game

  • Wharncliffe

    A blade pattern developed in early 19th-century England and attributed to the first Lord Wharncliffe. It features a straight cutting edge and a spine that tapers downward in a smooth, continuous curve into a fine, slender tip. This shape provides excellent cutting leverage along the flat edge while offering precision and control at the point.

    Environment
    Outdoor
    Uses
    Scoring, General Fieldwork, Woodworking

The processes used throughout knifemaking influence a blade’s structural integrity, cutting performance, durability, and final aesthetic.

San mai technique

  1. Material selection

    San mai (meaning three layers) involves utilizing two different steels to add strength and produce a striking visual effect.

  2. Forge-welded cross section

    These three layers are forge welded together and the layers become fused.

  3. Finished blade

    From this point the billet is forged into a blade shape and ground to reveal the inner core material.

Damascus technique

  1. Damascus cross section

    Damascus, or pattern-welded steel, is made in a similar way to san mai, except alternating layers of high-carbon steel with different properties are forge welded together. When the final blade is etched, the pattern is revealed as a result of these layers.

  2. Forging technique

    Three billets can be forged and re-stacked to create many layers, which then become the final blade material.

  3. Shaping the pattern

    The bladesmith can remove material by filing, drilling, or grinding part of the metal away, or move the layers with a hammer or press. The resulting patterns vary widely, but the intricate, wavy patterns are a distinctive hallmark of Damascus steel.

  4. Example Damascus pattern: irregular swirling layers

    Pattern example 1

  5. Example Damascus pattern: repeating wave layers

    Pattern example 2

Processes A–Z

Annealing

The process of heating steel, holding it at that temperature, and then slowly cooling it to soften the material and make it easier to cut on bandsaws and other metalworking tools.

Bead Blasting

The process also known as a “sand blast,” which uses compressed air to spray small spherical particles, called beads, onto a steel surface to create a textured, matte finish.

Belt Finish

A blade finish created using abrasive polishing belts on a grinding machine. A belt-finished blade typically has a uniform satin finish with fine, consistent scratches running from the edge to the spine.

Etching

A metalworking process that uses acid or another chemical agent to selectively darken or remove material from a steel surface. Etching can reveal the contrasting layers in Damascus or san mai steel.

Forged

A knife made from steel that has been shaped and reduced in thickness through the application of heat and force, using methods such as hammering, rolling, or pressing.

Forge Welding

The process of fusing two or more pieces of steel into a single billet using heat and pressure. Forge welding is used to create layered steels such as Damascus or san mai.

Hand Sanded

A blade finished by hand using sandpaper or abrasive belts. A hand-sanded blade typically has a uniform satin finish with fine scratches running parallel to the length of the blade.

Hardening

The process of heating steel to an ideal temperature and then cooling it rapidly to increase its hardness. Hardening is a critical step in developing a blade’s ability to hold an edge.

Heat Treating

A controlled series of heating and cooling processes used to alter the properties of steel. For knife blades, heat treating is used to achieve the combination of hardness, toughness, and edge retention suited to the steel and its intended use.

Laser Engraving

A process that uses a focused laser beam to remove or alter material on an object's surface. Laser engraving can create permanent and highly detailed designs and typography on blades.

Normalizing

A heat-treating process that uses controlled heating and cooling cycles to refine the internal structure of steel after forging. Proper normalizing helps prepare the steel for hardening and tempering and can improve the consistency and performance of the finished blade.

Oxidation

A chemical reaction in which a material loses electrons. In steel, oxidation occurs when iron reacts with oxygen and moisture, producing compounds such as iron oxide. Rust and patina are both forms of oxidation, but they affect steel differently.

Patina

A form of oxidation that develops naturally on carbon steel, gradually darkening the surface over time. A stable patina can help protect the underlying steel from further oxidation and is less damaging than active rust.

Quenching

The rapid cooling of heated steel, typically in oil or by air, depending on the type of steel. Quenching is a critical operation required to harden steel.

Rusting

A form of red oxidation that produces reddish-brown iron oxides commonly known as rust. On carbon steel, prolonged exposure to moisture can cause rust to develop and eventually lead to pitting and other damage to the blade.

Sand Blasting

The process of spraying an abrasive medium onto a steel surface to alter its texture and create a matte finish. Despite the name, modern sand blasting may use materials such as glass beads or other abrasives. Also known as bead blasting.

Sharpening

The process of using an abrasive material, such as a whetstone, to remove worn material from a blade and restore a fine cutting edge.

Stock Removal

A knifemaking method in which a blade is cut or shaped from a sheet or bar of steel rather than forged to shape. The resulting blade is then ground and heat treated to achieve its final form and properties.

Tempering

A heat-treating process performed after steel has been hardened. Because hardened steel can be excessively hard and brittle, tempering uses controlled heating to reduce brittleness and increase toughness, making the blade more durable and less prone to chipping.

Waterjet Cutting

An industrial cutting process that uses a high-pressure jet of water, often mixed with an abrasive, to cut steel. Because the process generates minimal heat, it can cut precise shapes without significantly altering the properties of the surrounding steel.

Steel types

While all of our knives are crafted to cut exceptionally well, choosing a steel that suits the way you use and care for your knife is an important part of finding the right one.

190 mm Stainless Steel Funayuki - Carbon Fiber

Stainless Steel

Stainless steel is a practical choice for a durable, everyday workhorse that requires less maintenance and offers greater resistance to rust and corrosion.

The term stainless means the steel is highly resistant to staining, not completely immune to it. Prolonged exposure to moisture, saltwater, or acidic foods can still cause corrosion, particularly when the knife is not cleaned and dried properly. Under normal conditions, stainless steel will typically maintain a clean, bright appearance with relatively little upkeep.

150 mm Carbon Steel Petty - Desert Ironwood

Carbon Steel

Carbon steel is prized by serious home cooks and professional chefs for its toughness, edge retention, and ability to take an exceptionally sharp edge. It also develops a distinctive, visual character through use.

Over time, carbon steel naturally darkens as it develops an oxide layer called patina. If left wet or exposed to corrosive materials for too long, however, it can develop red rust, which may eventually cause pitting. Carbon steel therefore requires more attention to cleaning, drying, and storage.

150 mm "Callisto" Petty - Bocote

San Mai

Meaning “three layers” in Japanese, san mai describes a steel construction made by forge welding three layers together.

The outer layers are typically softer steels that provide durability and shock absorption, while the extremely hard inner carbon steel core provides the cutting performance.

180 mm Carbon Steel Funayuki - Koa

Damascus

Damascus refers to a steel construction made from multiple layers of steel that are forge welded together to create a distinct, often one-of-a-kind pattern.

Historically, layered steel constructions were used to combine the properties of different steels. Today, Damascus is often chosen as much for its visual character as for its performance, with each blade developing its own unique pattern.

Steel A–Z

14C28N

A stainless blade steel manufactured in collaboration with the knife industry in 2009 by Sandvik in Sweden. It’s an improved version of AEB-L stainless steel with better corrosion resistance properties. This steel strikes an excellent balance of toughness and sharpness with an edge retention comparable to high-quality carbon steels.

26C3

A Swedish carbon steel manufactured by Uddeholm. This steel is an improved version of the famous Hitachi White Steel from Japan. It’s prized for its high hardness and ability to take and hold an incredibly keen, polished edge for the task of sushi preparation. This formulation improves the toughness significantly and solves the chipping issues that Japanese White Steel has a reputation for.

410 Stainless

An industrial stainless steel primarily used in knifemaking as outer layers in san mai for its toughness and corrosion resistance.

52100

A high-carbon steel invented in 1905 for the manufacture of ball and roller ball bearings. It’s highly prized by knifemakers after discovering its ability to be treated to a high hardness while maintaining excellent toughness and wear resistance.

AEB-L

A stainless blade steel originally designed in 1928 by Uddeholm in Sweden. This steel strikes an excellent balance of toughness and sharpness with an edge retention comparable to high-quality carbon steels.

Apex Ultra

A premium modern forging steel manufactured in Austria and the U.K., formulated with Vanadium and Tungsten. It’s prized for its extreme hardness and ability to maintain impressive toughness and edge-holding abilities. Much like Japanese steel, it maintains a clean microstructure for fine sharpenability in kitchen knives.

Carbon Steel

The original form of steel that, in its simplest form, is composed of iron and carbon. Carbon steel darkens over time and develops character with an oxide layer called a patina. If left too long in wet conditions, carbon steel may grow a red form of corrosive rust, which will cause undesirable surface pitting. This means that carbon steel requires extra care to ensure it’s dried and stored properly.

CruForge-V

A specialized high-carbon blade steel developed by Crucible Industries in the United States for custom knifemakers. Its added vanadium provides high wear resistance, while its combination of toughness and edge retention makes it well suited to hand-forged, non-stainless blades.

Damascus

Multiple layers of dissimilar alternating steels forge welded together with heat and pressure. When placed in an etching solution, these dissimilar steels oxidize and darken at different rates to reveal a pattern.

Damasteel

A premium form of stainless steel Damascus manufactured by the company Damasteel in Söderfors, Sweden.

Mild Steel

A type of low-carbon steel, typically containing 0.05–0.25% carbon. While mild steel does not excel at edge retention, it’s highly tough and resistant to cracking. It’s often forge welded with high-performance cutting steel to create contrasting layers and balance the performance characteristics of both materials.